Baudelaire on the Louvre

"there isn't a place in Paris where you can have a better chat"

It might be difficult to imagine today, but in the 19th century the Louvre was not yet an international tourist attraction. It first opened during the French revolution in 1793, and only contained a few hundred works.

The painting above is by the French artist Hubert Robert, who was appointed the keeper of the King’s paintings. This made him both curator and architect, an unusual combination for any artist. The painting above is a design he came up with for the main gallery. It’s main features are the glass ceilings that allow the paintings to be seen in natural light, and the repurposing of the halls for artistic creation and sketches, so that the public could see artists at work. It was a grand project, meant to instill a sense of collective ownership and participation in the Arts.

In the 19th century, the Louvre came to serve as a convenient meeting point for artists and writers. Writing to his mother, the French author Baudelaire wrote:

“There isn’t a place in Paris where you can have a better chat; it’s heated, you can wait for someone without getting bored, and what’s more it’s the most respectable meeting place for a woman.”

It’s a lovely characterization of what draws us to a great museum. It’s not just the art. It’s also the opportunity to spend some time strolling, thinking, chatting, and maybe even going on a date. And whilst the Louvre isn’t exactly the calmest place to do so, maybe this post will inspire you to spend an idle afternoon at your local gallery or museum. At least, I hope so.

Julian

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